For many, the appeal of vintage tool watches lies in the fact that these timepieces were made to do a specific job as accurately as possible, and as such, form almost always follows its practical function. World War II was a brutal conflict. Precision and reliability were paramount. Some gadgets sent out to battle zones are highly respected and collectible items today. Few of them, if any, were held in such high regard as the Dirty Dozen military watches.
The Dirty Dozen watches were ordered by the British Ministry of Defence. More than ever, it’s the history, the value, and the meaning of these Dirty Dozen watches that are making them sought-after. The more we understand about the legacy of these amazing British military watches, the more likely we are to acknowledge that they’re among the coolest watches ever made, whether we’re relative novices to the world of vintage watches or long-standing watch collectors. Let’s go through some of them together.
What are Dirty Dozen Watches?
Dirty Dozen is a term that refers to the 12 different military watches made by 12 different manufacturers around World War II. The British Ministry of Defense required that any watch made for government use be robust and accurate. To achieve those standards, the watch manufacturers created different models of watches to meet the requirements.
- Waterproof – marked with W.W.W. on the back
- Have a black dial
- Luminous hour and minute hands
- Luminious hour markers
- Railroad minute track
- Shatterproof crystal
- Stainless steel case (Hodinkee)
To achieve those standards, the watch manufacturers created different models of watches to meet the requirements.
Each watch was designed to stand up to the rigors of the battlefield. They were distributed to army, navy, and air force servicemen and rapidly became indispensable battlefield instruments.
The Dirty Dozen Watch Brands
These watches were made by a group of 12 watch manufacturers. Each brand gives each of the watch models its look while conforming to meticulous military specifications.
1. Buren:
Estimated number produced: 11,000
Wartime contributions: Buren, a smaller Swiss brand, supplied military-grade watches to the British armed forces during the Second World War. While their numbers were low compared with some other manufacturers, Buren provided watches that met the requirements of the British Ministry of Defence (MoD), a seal of quality for soldiers in the field.
Design Features: The defining features of a Buren are a hearty, hand-wound movement (similar to others but with a specific layout that made it a bit more shock-resistant) and the neat and symmetrical layout of the sub-second dial, which meant that the overall look was incredibly clean and uncluttered.
2. Cyma:
Estimated number produced: 20,000
Wartime contributions: Cyma was one of the biggest manufacturers of military watches during the Second World War. It produced around 20,000 shock-resistant, accurate timepieces for the British armed forces.
Design Features: Cyma’s most famous movement, Caliber 234, included a thicker diamond-shaped bridge that made it more durable. The font used for the dial numbers was slightly thicker and more squared than some other brands, making the numbers easier to read.
3. Eterna:
Estimated number produced: 5,000
Wartime contributions: Eterna was granted a number of patents and became highly innovative. It made robust, easy-to-repair, and difficult-to-break watches that were selected for the British military for their accuracy and sturdiness.
Design Features: Eterna watches featured a patented anti-magnetic protection system that was more advanced than some of its contemporaries. It was common for the sub-seconds dial to be positioned centrally on either side of the watch, a testament to the movement’s high precision.
4. Grana:
Estimated number produced: 1000-1500
Wartime Contributions: Grana, the watchmaking sub-brand of Kurth Frères, was one of the smaller suppliers, making a relatively minor number of watches, all of extremely high quality. Grana made some of the very best wartime pieces, supplied exclusively to the British military. They are extremely rare, and highly sought-after by collectors.
Design Features: Grana watches are rare because they produced far fewer watches than the other Dirty Dozen brands. Grana was notable for it’s fine finishing. Grana also had slightly thinner numerals on the dial giving it a more refined appearance.
5. IWC (International Watch Company):
Estimated number produced: 6,000
Wartime contributions: Selected by the British government for its quality and dependability, IWC watches were slightly larger than other Dirty Dozen watches, which made them easier to read, especially in combat.
Design Features: IWC watches had a large case, making them more legible. They used the Caliber 83 movement, which made the watch robust and reliable. IWC watches had a unique finishing that was more refined than most of the Dirty Dozen watches.
6. Jaeger-LeCoultre:
Estimated number produced: 10,000
Wartime contributions: Jaeger-LeCoultre developed a reputation for innovation and craftsmanship, and the watches it supplied to the British military were trusted for their steadfast reliability. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s timepieces were an integral part of ensuring the accurate timekeeping needed to advance the war effort.
Distinctive Features: Jaeger-LeCoultre watches housed the finely finished Caliber 479 movement with a uniquely configured layout and were notable for highly precise timekeeping.
7. Lemania:
Estimated number produced: 8,000
Wartime contributions: Lemania earned a great reputation for chronographs and military watches. During the Second World War, they produced very precise Dirty Dozen military watches.
Design Features: Lemania Dirty Dozen watches have a reputation for precise timing, and the movement was notably easy to service. They also offered thicker protection to the dial.
8. Longines:
Estimated number produced: 5,000
Wartime contributions: Longines has a pedigree in the production of military watches. During World War II they supplied thousands of rugged watches for the British military, leading to their reputation for producing excellent watches that maintained their specifications under arduous conditions.
Design Features: Longines had a reputation for accuracy. They used the Caliber 12.68Z, a movement Longines had been working on for decades. The numerals on the dial had a hairline finish so they could be wider without interrupting the symmetry.
9. Omega:
Estimated number produced: 25,000
Wartime contributions: Omega was one of the largest Dirty Dozen suppliers, shipping more than 20,000 pieces to the British military. The watches would be used to coordinate raids and assaults, as accurate time-keeping was critical to battlefield success.
Design Features: At the heart of Omega’s Dirty Dozen watch was the Caliber 30T2 movement, which was lauded for its strength and reliability. The brand’s mass production experience ensured consistent quality. Compared to the other brands, Omega’s numerals were more modern and rounded, a detail that made the dial stand apart.
10. Record:
Estimated number produced: 25,000
Wartime contributions: Record was a small Swiss manufacturer that fulfilled Britain’s need for a large number of serviceable (accurate and durable) watches for use by soldiers. Record Dirty Dozen watches were known as dependable tools for soldiers.
Design Features: Record’s Dirty Dozen watches featured the Caliber 022K movement and a nicely proportioned sub-seconds dial that helped balance the watch and enhance its overall legibility.
11. Timor:
Estimated number produced: 13,000
Wartime contributions: Timor was a Swiss brand that made wartime contributions, producing thousands of watches for the British war effort. Timor Dirty Dozen watches were rugged, simple, and reliable. They were used across all branches of the British military.
Design Features: Timor models had a case design with thicker lugs, giving it a sturdier feel. The movement used, Caliber 6060, was known for its exceptional durability under severe conditions. This made Timor watches a favorite with soldiers.
12. Vertex:
Estimated number produced: 15,000
Wartime contributions: Vertex was the only British company that made Dirty Dozen watches. They were chosen due to their stellar reputation for making reliable timepieces. This is why Vertex watches were issued to the British military in great numbers.
Design Features: Vertex Dirty Dozen watches were known for their clean and precise Caliber 59 movement and their practical design. The dial had numerals with a distinct shape that made them different from other brands.
What are the Values of Dirty Dozen Watches?
The value of Dirty Dozen Watches depends a lot on the brand, condition, and rarity, but prices commonly range between a few thousand dollars to over $30,000 for pristine examples. Complete pieces, with the original dial and movement, are highly prized by collectors. A full set of Dirty Dozen watches is a collector’s dream that rarely appears on the market.
- Some of the less well-known Dirty Dozen watches can be purchased for 1000-2000 pounds. In November 2022, a Grana Dirty Dozen watch sold for 31,800 pounds (around $38,000).
- In February 2024, an auction featuring a Grana watch was expected to sell for around $25,200, and a Jaeger LeCoultre was expected to fetch $3800.
- In August 2020 a full set of Dirty Dozen watches sold for 27,000 GBP (Teddy Baldassarre)
Condition matters a great deal. Dirty Dozen watches that still retain most of their original parts, and show little sign of hard wear are worth considerably more. Rarer brands are also more valuable, such as Grana, which produced relatively few of the military watches. This rarity plays a key role in setting their market value.
The market for Dirty Dozen watches has been growing for years, as military history and vintage watches are more popular than ever. Auctions of Dirty Dozen watches tend to be the subject of savage bidding wars: it’s hard to find a model that is not coveted by more than one watch enthusiast bent on adding it to their collection. Collecting Dirty Dozen watches has become, for many people, another way of touching history.
What is the Rarest Dirty Dozen Watch?
Grana made the fewest of the known Dirty Dozen watches, thereby making Grana Dirty Dozen watches some of the most sought-after collectibles. These watches also usually command the highest prices at auction. A Grana Dirty Dozen watch in fine condition is very hard to find, and this rarity is part of the appeal and value, making it the holy grail of any Dirty Dozen collection.
How Many Dirty Dozen Watches Were Made?
An estimated 150,000 watches were produced by these 12 brands, although some produced more than others. Omega and IWC produced the most, while other brands such as Grana produced far fewer. These watches were used by several branches of the British military.
Many Dirty Dozen watches got lost, broken, melted down, or otherwise disappeared as the years went on, so surviving examples available today are highly prized and worth quite a bit of money. The entire run of the Dirty Dozen watches provides a reminder of how important they were to the Allied war effort in the Second World War. While today we sometimes think of watches as accessories, back then, they were an indispensable part of a soldier’s kit that helped him stay on time, keep his bearings, and coordinate with other members of his unit.
Accurate timekeeping was an essential ingredient for military success. Surviving Dirty Dozen watches are a testament to the quality and robustness of the 12 brands. In many cases, they have defied both the ravages of years and the uncomfortable environments in which the watches passed 70 years ago.
Conclusion
Created as military timepieces in the Second World War, many of these watches are now very coveted – but only through an understanding of their original context can you appreciate them properly.
Dirty Dozen watches are a lasting emblem of resilience and precision. In an era when technology advances at warp speed, Dirty Dozen watches in our time are a message to heed the slower, craftsmanlike values – a feel-good element of horology that’s easy to embrace. When you own or plan on owning a Dirty Dozen watch, you become a steward of history.
If you are interested in watch accessories, check out the Mozsly watch winders, the best single and double watch winders in the business.
You might also like: Panerai vs Omega: Which Brand is Better for You?
Resources
- https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/dirty-dozen-first-wristwatches-specially-commissioned-for-british-army
- https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/dirty-dozen-twelve-military-watches
- https://wornandwound.com/military-watches-of-the-world-the-dirty-dozen/
- https://teddybaldassarre.com/blogs/watches/dirty-dozen-watches
- https://www.fratellowatches.com/a-brief-history-of-the-dirty-dozen-military-wristwatches
