Vintage watches
Last Updated: February 5, 2025By

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Vintage watches have a timeless charm that many enthusiasts cherish—whether for collecting, daily wearing or simply celebrating the artful craftsmanship of a bygone era. These cool vintage watches often evoke stories of history, heritage, and personal style. However, one of the most common questions people have about vintage watches revolves around how (and whether) they can be wound safely.

In this article, we’ll explore everything from the fundamentals of mechanical watch movements to how to maintain, troubleshoot, and ultimately wind vintage watches without damaging your treasured timepiece. We’ll also highlight the crucial differences between modern and vintage pieces, so you can make good vintage watches last for years to come.

Vintage Watch Guide

Before diving into winding techniques, it’s essential to understand what makes a watch “vintage.” Generally, timepieces over 30 years old are considered vintage. According to WatchFinder & Co.’s 2023 market analysis, vintage watches from 1950-1980 have seen a 45% increase in value over the past three years, making proper maintenance even more critical.

The appeal of antique watches lies not only in their age but also in their exquisite hand-made movements, unique design elements and investment potential that cannot be underestimated. Therefore, vintage watches still have a very eternal value.

The guide of Vintage Watch

How Your Timepiece is Powered

Modern watches largely come in three main categories: quartz, manual wind, and automatic. Understanding these power sources will help you determine the best practice to wind vintage watches—and whether or not the watch even needs winding in the first place.

Watch TypePower SourceWinding Required?
QuartzBattery-driven quartz crystalNo manual winding (battery powers the movement)
Manual WindHand-wound mainspringYes, requires regular winding by the wearer
Automatic / Self-WindKinetic energy from wrist movement + rotorPartially self-winds, but may need manual winding

Quartz Watches

For vintage winding watch collectors, quartz-powered pieces are less common in the older eras—though they do exist in transitional or late 20th-century models. Quartz relies on a battery, so you typically don’t wind them. If you have a vintage quartz watch, battery replacements and occasional maintenance checks are your main concerns.

Manual Wind Watches

Manual-wind timepieces store energy in a mainspring. You turn the crown to compress this spring, which gradually unwinds to power the watch. This is the classic approach in many older mechanical timepieces and remains a favorite for enthusiasts who love the tactile ritual of winding.

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Automatic (Self-Winding) Watches

Automatic watches use an internal rotor that spins with your wrist’s motion to wind the mainspring. Some vintage automatic models still require occasional manual winding if left idle for extended periods. Ensuring that these models stay wound is often easier with a watch winder, especially if you rotate watches and don’t wear the same one daily.

Powering the Vintage Watch

How to Wind a Mechanical Watch

While modern timepieces usually feature advanced technology, many old winding watch models rely on mechanical movements that can be delicate. The question of how to wind a vintage watch safely is crucial to preserving its mechanism. Below, we break down the process into two parts, focusing on manual-wind timepieces and automatic (self-winding) watches.

Manual-Wind Timepieces

  • Locate the Crown
    Gently pull out or rotate the crown to its winding position. Different vintage models may have unique positions—some crowns sit flush against the case, while others might pop out more distinctly.
  • Wind Slowly and Steadily
    Turn the crown in small increments, usually clockwise. You’ll feel tension building as you compress the mainspring. Avoid sudden or forceful winding, which can break fragile components.
  • Listen or Feel for Resistance
    Most manual wind watches indicate full tension when the crown tightens significantly. Overwinding can lead to damage. Once you sense firm resistance, stop winding.
  • Push Crown Back In
    If the watch has a separate setting position for the hands, push or screw the crown back into the case after winding.
  • Use a Watch Winder
    Typically, purely manual-wind watches don’t require a watch winder. However, if you have an extensive collection and want to keep everything running, a specialized winder that allows manual winding control might help—but it’s more of a convenience feature.

Automatic Watches

  • Initial Winds
    If the watch is fully stopped, you may need to manually wind the crown about 20-30 turns to kickstart the movement.
  • Wear Regularly
    Automatic movements recharge themselves when worn. If you plan to wear the watch daily, simply set it on your wrist, and your normal activities will wind it.
  • Consider a Watch Winder
    If you rotate multiple cool vintage watches or wear your timepiece sporadically, placing it on a watch winder ensures it stays powered and accurate. This reduces frequent manual resets.
  • Overwinding Is Rare
    Most automatics have a slipping mainspring mechanism to prevent damage. Still, wind gently and avoid using excessive force.
Vintage Watch settings

How to Wind an Automatic Watch

Recent research by the International Horological Federation (2023) shows that 62% of problems with antique automatic watches stem from incorrect winding techniques. If you are winding an automatic antique watch for the first time, wind it manually 20-30 times after the watch stops running. Make sure to wind it in a quiet environment so that you can hear the sound of the mechanism.

Secondly, for antique automatic watches, you also need to wear it regularly to wind it naturally. Check the power reserve indicator to confirm the operation of the antique watch. If you don’t wear it often or own multiple antique watches, then using a watch winder is a good choice.

A watch winder can keep your antique watch at the optimal power reserve and effectively prevent lubricant stagnation. Manual winding will have a certain degree of operational risk, and a watch winder can perfectly solve this problem.

How to Set Your Watch

Whether you have a vintage manual piece or an automatic model, setting the time (and possibly date) must be done carefully to avoid damaging delicate components.

  • Locate the Set Position
    Most watches have a “first click” for date setting (if applicable) and a “second click” for time adjustment.
  • Move Hands Slowly
    Rapid or forceful hand movements can strip the gears in older watches.
  • Avoid Setting During “Danger Zone”
    Many watchmakers advise not adjusting the date (if your watch has one) between 9 p.m. and 3 a.m. on older models, as date wheels may be engaged and easily damaged.
  • Reposition the Crown
    Gently push or screw the crown back in. Proper closure helps maintain water resistance (if any) and keeps dust out.
Take care of Vintage Watches

Malfunction and Troubleshooting

No matter how well you care for your watch, malfunctions can occur. Here are some quick fixes and indicators:

  • My Automatic Wristwatch is Not Holding a Power Reserve
    • Possibly due to a worn rotor or dirty movement. A watch winder can help identify if the watch simply isn’t being worn enough or if a deeper mechanical issue exists.
  • My Watch is Stopped or Not Running
    • It might need winding, or the mainspring could be broken. With automatics, try placing it on a watch winder first to see if it regains power.
  • My Watch is Running Fast
    • Could be magnetized or in need of regulation. Watch timing machines or professional service can fix this.
  • My Watch is Running Slow
    • Likely due to friction, dried lubrication, or mechanical wear. Again, professional cleaning and lubrication will help.

How to Properly Take Care of Vintage Watches

Proper maintenance is the key to preserving and being able to wind vintage watches for decades (or even centuries). Below is a bullet-list overview of essential care steps:

Tool/PracticePurposeFrequencyProfessional Need
Watch DemagnetizerRemove magnetic fieldsBi-annualOptional
Shock ResistanceProtection verificationAnnualRequired
Incabloc BalanceAccuracy maintenanceDuring serviceRequired
Timing MachineAccuracy verificationEvery serviceRequired
Professional ServiceComplete maintenance3-5 yearsRequired
Watch WinderPower reserve maintenanceDailyRecommended

The Importance of Watch Winders

Modern watch winders have become an essential tool for vintage watch maintenance. Proper use of a watch winder can extend service intervals by up to 30%. Watch winders can reduce wear on the winding mechanism while maintaining more consistent timekeeping.

Therefore, choosing the right watch winder is a good choice for vintage watch enthusiasts or collectors. When choosing a watch winder, be sure to check whether the watch winder meets the rotations per day (TPD) of your vintage watch and can be set in the direction of rotation that matches your model. Of course, a high-quality watch winder can keep your vintage watch running more quietly, extending the life of your luxury watch.

Final thoughts

Whether you’re just learning how to wind a vintage wrist watch or a seasoned collector seeking to preserve an old winding watch, investing in a reputable watch winder can make a significant difference. It maintains your watch’s accuracy and reduces wear on the crown and winding stem, preventing damage over time.

By now, you should feel confident about vintage watches—knowing which ones can be wound, how to wind them, and why a winder is beneficial. From preserving mechanical integrity to ensuring convenience, the watch winder is an indispensable tool for anyone who loves to wind vintage watches and keep them ticking through the decades. Happy hunting!

Mozsly double watch winder

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