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Did you know that the combined market share of Swiss watchmaking unions, Tudor dynasty, and Breitling exceeds 15%? This stunning statistic goes to show the mass appeal these two iconic Swiss watch brands have. Though each brand has made its unique mark on the world, they are both famous for supplying various military personnel and explorers with watches, chronometers, and other timepieces that have been withstanding the test of time and space (yes, a Breitling watch actually made it to space!). But, how do they match up in a Tudor vs Breitling contest?

This article will explore each brand’s history and some of its modern business practices. It will also review the features of the brands’ most famous models so you can make a more informed purchasing decision in Tudor vs Breitling.

Which is better Tudor or Breitling?

Tudor: A Brief History

Founded in 1926 by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf, Tudor’s goal was to create watches with the same reliability as Rolex ones at a more affordable price point. In its early days, there was often an affiliation between Tudor’s branding with Rolex, even going so far as to add the Rolex logo on the dial, but they put a stop to this practice once Tudor was able to get enough brand recognition.

Following in the footsteps of the Rolex Submariner, Tudor began creating watches for military divers, going on to supply the US Navy with divers’ watches from the late 1950s.

The first Tudor diver’s watch was created in 1954, the famous TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner. By 1956, they were supplying the French Navy with this model to test the watch’s underwater durability, which garnered the model immaculate ratings. However, this model was only water-resistant at 100m under.

Then, by the end of the 1950s, the TUDOR Submariner reference 7924, aka “The Big Crown,” had a design for 200m. This is also Tudor’s most iconic diver’s watch to this very day.

Finally, in 1970, Tudor was able to create another model that is a hallmark of the brand’s legacy and was “the Chronograph”, the first series being the TUDOR Oysterdate.

You might also like: How to Wind Tudor Watch?

Tudor vs Breitling: Do Tudor Watches Appreciate Overtime?

Most Tudor watch owners and collectors don’t purchase them for investment, as the company was founded with the intention of making reliable watches more accessible rather than exclusive.

However, more obscure models do exist and subsequently hold a higher resale value than models with high supply.

Authorized Tudor watch resellers actually have to follow pricing guides set by Tudor. Assuming the watch is in good condition, Tudor watches have the potential for good value retention, and with some rarer models, they can have increased value.

Highest Valued Tudor Watches

The highest-valued Tudor watches are from the Black Bay Collection, replicating classic diver watches that the company became famous for.

Tudor watches with these three particular features also have a high value:

• • Models with the “Smile Dial”

• • Models with “Snowflake Hands”

• • Early models featuring the Rolex logo

Tudor vs Breitling: Notable Tudor Watches to Add to Your Collection

Though some have called the Tudor watch a “poor man’s Rolex,” the majority praise the brand for its timeless designs, durability, and strong water resistance. Therefore, a Tudor watch is a great addition to your collection.

Tudor Black Bay Collection

Price Range: $2,000-$9,600

Unequivocally one of the most iconic Tudor watches modeled after the famous Submariner, this collection synthesizes classic aesthetics with durability. One seasoned watch reviewer [1] praised the Tudor Black Bay for its “terrific bezel with minimum backplay and a buttery smooth clasp that seemed to have been machined to perfection.”

Notable Features:

• • Snowflake Hands

• • Domed dial

• • Luminous hour markers

• • 200m water resistance

Tudor Submariners

Price Range: $1500-$11,000

For vintage watch enthusiasts, a Tudor Submariner is a must-have. A high-quality alternative to the Rolex Submariner at a more affordable price, these watches are the perfect water-resistant vintage timepiece to add to your collection.

Notable Features:

• • Stainless steel

• • Black dial

• • Luminous hour markers

• • 200m water resistance

Breitling: A Brief History

Founded in 1884 by 24-year-old Léon Breitling during a terrible recession in Switzerland, Breitling went on to engineer absolutely groundbreaking technological advancements that were trusted by military personnel, pilots, physicians, drivers, and even astronauts [2].

Also, Breitling was a brilliant engineer who was the brains behind the pulsograph (to measure patients’ pulses), a chronograph with 2/5ths of a second accuracy (unheard of at that point in the late 1800s), a table clock with an 8-day power reserve, and the tachymeter (a precursor to the speedometer).

His son Gaston Breitling inherited the company and evolved the brand to focus on wearability.

Then, at 19 years old, Willy Breitling, Léon’s grandson, took over the family business and patented the two-pusher chronograph that we know today.

The company also engineered reliable onboard instruments for pilots in the late 1930s, gaining enough reputability for the British Military to order chronographs for the Royal Air Force.

In 1940, the chronomat was developed, capable of handling mathematical operations with tachymeter, telemeter, and pulsometer functions, multiplication, division, and rule-of-three problems, production calculations, and more.

Finally, after three generations of keeping it within the family, the company was sold in 1979 to Ernest Schneider, who was able to maintain the legacy of the mechanical watch in the midst of the quartz crisis [3].

Breitling in 2024: A New Era

In 2017, Breitling got sold to a leading firm in private equity, who gave the reigns to George Kern, which marked a huge turning point for the company—but arguably one for the better.

This era of Breitling is marked by many changes, including:

1. “Modern-retro” design.

2. More “snug” or “compact” feeling on the wrist compared to the Schenider era.

3. Improved bracelet and clasp quality.

4. A commitment to sustainability by sourcing artisanal and small-scale gold, lab-grown diamonds instead of mined ones, upcycled packaging, and sustainable watch straps.

5. Donations to NGOs doing ocean cleanups, reforestation projects, and supplying bicycles across Africa.

6. Fair wages to employees.

7. Digital advancements, such as a digital passport for every watch.

Tudor vs Breitling: Do Breitling Watches Appreciate Overtime?

In general, the watch market has depreciated a bit over the last year [4] so you may not be in luck if you’re planning on reselling a common Breitling model.

However, vintage pieces tend to maintain their value over time, while limited and special edition pieces will appreciate over time, such as the Breitling Top Time Deus Chronograph. Also, the creation of this was in collaboration with Australian lifestyle company Deus Ex Machina.

Tudor vs Breitling: Notable Breitling Watches to Add to Your Collection

If you’re wondering “are Breitling watches good?”, the answer is a unanimous “yes” from watch enthusiasts around the world. So, let’s take a look at two editions of their most iconic designs. Generally speaking, Breitling reviews are always singing the watches’ praises for their incredibly complex functions.

Breitling Navitimer

Price Range: $3,500-$35,000

Some have called the Navitimer the “beating heart of Breitling.” Originally dating back to the early 1950s, this classic design is often reinvented, but nonetheless, new editions are vintage-inspired.

Notable Models: Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph AB0138211B1P1

Notable Features:

• • Chronograph with functions like the ability to divide, multiply, and mark nautical miles and kilometers

• • Stainless steel

• • Luminous hour markers

• • Black dial

• • Circular slide-rolling bezel

Breitling SuperOcean

Price Range: $2,800-$6,000

Another super iconic design was first introduced in 1964. This model is loved by collectors because of its unique design and movement.

Notable Models: Breitling SuperOcean Ref. 2005 “Slowmo” Chronograph

Notable Features:

• • Black bezel

• • Slow-motion diving chronograph, with minute-hand being the longest

• • Micro-adjustable clasp

• • Water-resistant to 300m

Does Breitling use Tudor movement?

Back in 2017, when Tudor announced the Heritage Black Bay Chrono, the brand dubbed its caliber MT5813 as “in-house” — a mistake at the time. In reality, the movement turned out to be sourced from Breitling for its developed and manufactured chronograph Caliber B01. Thankfully today, readers are a little less het up on the use of the term “in-house”, but we still have some work to do.

Tudor supply Breitling with its Caliber MT5612, and Breitling supply Tudor with its Caliber B01.

It was the result of a surprising partnership between Breitling and Tudor that saw two movements shared from each brand. Up until now, we have witnessed Breitling’s B01 make its way into the Black Bay Chrono. In return, Tudor’s Caliber MT5612 is used in the Breitling SuperOcean Heritage II and the often-overlooked Aviator Super 8. Word on the (boutique) street is that Tudor cannot develop its Caliber MT5612 quick enough to meet the demands of the SOHII.

From Breitling B01 to Tudor MT5813

Breitling’s Calibre B01 is a self-winding chronograph powerhouse that features a column-wheel mechanism and vertical clutch. Before slotting the movement into its Black Bay Chrono, Tudor supplies Breitling with a few replacement components — a tungsten winding rotor, a variable inertia balance wheel, a silicon balance spring, and the axis. Breitling then modifies the movement by replacing the B01’s 30-minute sub-dial with the Black Bay Chrono’s 45-minute chronograph register.

The movement is then “decorated” in the typically industrial Tudor style. The combination of sandblasting, brushing, and laser engraving adds up to a more straightforward finishing than Breitling’s more finessed style for its movements. It’s part of the reason why the Black Bay Chrono is more attainable than the Chronomat. In a final step, all the calibers, regardless of brand, are shipped to and tested at COSC for chronometer certification. Once certified, Tudor classifies it as the Tudor Caliber MT5813, hence Tudor’s belief the movement should be regarded as in-house.

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Tudor vs Breitling: Which Watch Should I Choose?

Ultimately, your choice in Tudor vs Breitling will come down to factors including price, desired features, and preference of style. However, that being said:

Choose Tudor if you already know and trust Rolex and are expecting similar features and functions at an affordable price.

Choose Breitling if you want advanced scales and functions, such as the ability to divide and multiply, and if you care about sustainable and ethical business practices.

Tudor vs Breitling: Caring for Your Watch

Whichever watch you choose in the Tudor vs Breitling conundrum, caring for your luxury timepiece is an absolute must. The best way to do this is by investing in a Watch Winder to ensure that the oils in your mechanical watch have an even dispersal when you leave it at home. Want an awesome added bonus? A watch winder is a beautiful way to display your watch and incorporate it into your bedroom decor.

References:

[1] https://www.beansandbezels.com/reviews/five-years-later-the-tudor-black-bay/

[2] https://www.breitling.com/us-en/watches/navitimer/navitimer-b02-chronograph-41/PB02301A1B1/

[3] https://www.breitling.com/us-en/history/instrumentsforprofessionals/

[4] https://www.chrono24.com/magazine/hand-to-the-chest-do-breitling-watches-hold-their-value-p_123336/#gref